Tom's Thumb Trail and the Lookout on the McDowell Mountains

This was a great hike! The north end of this range has very large granite Boulders scattered all along the trail that make interesting looking rock formations. One very large hunk of granite is a Scottsdale landmark known as Tom's Thumb. More of a monolith than a boulder, it was named after a famous valley resident rock climber who first climbed the rock in the 1960's.

The trail head is not very easy to get to unless you have a truck or vehicle with high clearance. I made it with my little Honda Civic, but I drove very slowly and carefully. Take Dynamite Rd. until it turns into Rio Verde Dr. then turn down 128th st. Follow the signs, they will get you there. 128th st is a dirt road but fairly smooth to start out with. Half way to the trailhead it changes from dirt road to black top but quickly goes back to dirt, so it would appear that they are working on making the area more accessible. The further down you drive the bumpier it gets and you have to be careful of dips and rocks. Once at the parking area (it is roughly the "intersection" of 130th st and Paraiso Dr) you kind of have to look around for the start of the trail. You can see Tom's Thumb and Gardner's Rock Wall at the trailhead.

Starting out is a bit rough. There are some pretty steep switch backs and it is one way so, unless someone has a car at the other end (it connects with the Windgate Trail which connects with the Gateway Loop, so you would have to park at the Gateway trailhead), you will be coming back the way you came So be prepared to be pulled down the mountain (gravity is a b#$*^).  About fifteen minutes in it smooths out and you get a bit of a break.

At about the point where it becomes more of a leisurely hike (emphasis on the "more") you come to a fork. Actually, it is like a spider because four or five different trails meet here and the Tom's Thumb trail keeps going. There is the East End trail that meets at this point, named for the highest summit in the range. It doesn't actually take you to the summit, but you probably could reach it with climbing equipment.

A very phallic looking rock.

I continued on the Tom's Thumb trail which took me past some extraordinary rock piles and formations. Thousands of years of wind and rain (mostly wind) has shaped these rocks into near works of art. I thought to myself that God must have a very Juvenal sense of humor (as do I) because most of the formations resembled phalli.

At a certain point you come to a junction. There is a sign pointing to Windgate pass and the Lookout and another pointing to a rock climbing access trail to Tom's Thumb. There are warnings that you should have "proper equipment and skills" for this area, but for the most part it is an easy trail to Tom's Thumb and Gardner's Wall.

The crevasse in the side of Tom's Thumb gives you some nice shade.

When I got there, I was kind of in aw. For one thing, it is just beautiful on the summit, not only the view but the landscape, the other rock formations and the flora and fauna of the Sonoran Desert. I was also in aw of Tom's Thumb itself. From Tatum Blvd. and Bell Rd. it looks so small, but when you are right up there with it you realize it is HUGE! It is approximately 140 feet and pretty wide as well. On one side of it there is a groove (not quite a cave, although a small crack goes back into it for about five feet or so.) that you can climb up to and there is even a nice flat rock you can sit on and enjoy some shade for a while. Further down the trail (from where I came in from) there is a large boulder leaning against some other boulders. I believe this is called the "Ogre's Den".

I think this is the "Ogre's Den".

It sort of makes
a cave that you can climb or crawl into and, once again, sit and enjoy some shade.

Inside the "Ogre's Den".

A forest of cacti and a bounty of prickly pears.

Thompson Peak in the background.

After playing for a while (and eating a cliff bar) I had to back track. I briefly got confused and lost the trail, but quickly found it again. back at the junction, I decided to check out the Lookout. The Lookout Trail is only half a mile and is not that strenuous, so it is worth the detour to take a look at the view. Along the way I spotted a hawk or falcon, some sort of bird of prey. I tried getting some pictures, but he was an elusive little rascal. Later while taking some video, he (or she) flew into the shot making me very happy. from the Lookout you can see nearly all of the valley to the west, Thompson Peak and the McDowell Peaks to the south,  Fountain Hills and the Superstition Mountains to the southeast and the Matazal Mountains to the east.

The fountain in Fountain Hills went off at about 9:00 am. Superstition Mountains and Weavers Needle in the background.

Rock on!

The walk back was great because I saw some rock formations that I didn't see going in. One looked like someone's hand at a metal concert making the Dio devil horn sign. I snapped a pic with my hands in front of it. As stated before, since it was a steep climb going up, it was a battle with gravity going down. I was forced to run at times and even though it was still early (9:30 am) it was still to hot to run, for me anyway. I made the mistake of freezing my hydration pack the night before, so I temporarily did not have water for part of the last leg of the hike because the block of ice wouldn't freeze fast enough (won't do that again).

Near the trailhead, I went looking for a Geo-cache,  but was not successful in finding it. The GPS on my phone is not very accurate, so I tried recall all of the clues and the map that I saw online, but to no avail. I was hot and tired, so I hopped back in my car and made the bumpy ride back to Rio Verde Dr.

An interesting rock formation near Tom's Thumb.

My car at the trailhead parking.

So, in my opinion, this is a great trail to go hiking on. It is very challenging but the beautiful scenery of the Sonoran Desert and the views from the summit make it all worth while. If I can ever borrow someone's truck or hitch a ride, I will definitely do it again.

Tom's Thumb and Gardner's Wall.

A little Jackrabbit.

Pinnacle Peak Hike (1.5 miles of the 1.75 mile trail)

I decided about a week ago to hike the trail at Pinnacle Peak. After looking at different sites about the trail and its difficulty I thought this would be a very good hike because it seemed moderately easy and a great place to take pictures.

So, I set out for Pinnacle Peak at 5:00 am. It rained the night before and I wasn't sure if the trail would be muddy or not. It was not, but it was humid and a little warm. From FLW blvd. I turned north on the 101, staying on the frontage road and eventually turned right on Pima rd. I took Pima rd. to Happy Valley rd and turned right and drove a ways until I got to Alma School rd. and turned left. I drove up to Pinnacle Peak rd. and turned left which took me to the entrance of the park.

The parking lot, visitor center and trail head are all very nice and well kept. It is maintained by both the dept. of parks and rec. and The Friends of Pinnacle Peak Park. The trail is very smooth and well marked. There are several points that mark how far you are from the trail head. There are also several signs that have information on the plants that are native to the Sonoran Desert.

The first part of the trail is tough because it is all inclines and switchbacks. I was breathing rather heavy all the way up, but it smooths out very quickly. The highest point is just a little more than .25 miles in and provides some beautiful scenic views. From there you can see the northern most parts of Scottsdale, Phoenix and you can see Cave Creek, Carefree and the Matazal Mountains.

There are several points marked for climbers only, these trails are off limits to hikers and you have to have the proper equipment to climb within the park.

After the high point of the trail it winds around the other side of the peak to an lookout point where you can see Camelback Mountain, the Phoenix Mountains and the Sierra Estrellas to the south.

Just west of the peak there is a connecting butte. The trail dips down between the two and comes back up on the other butte. There are several switchbacks going up the side and it ends on the other side of the butte.

I turned around  (the trail is one way and not a loop.) with only a half a mile to go because I was sticking to a time schedule, but I was satisfied with the hike and I figure I will come back with someone who can park at the other end of the trail or I can just turn back like I did today.

The hard part of Pinnacle Peak is all of the ups and downs but I would say overall it is fairly easy. It has great views of the valley and it is a great place to experience the flora and fauna of the Sonoran Desert. It is a great trail and one that everyone who loves to hike should experience.

Short Desert Hike Checklist

I was recently reviewing hiking checklists online and realized 1. A lot of the things that they recommend is too much if you want to go on a short hike and 2. Their checklists are for climates other than the desert. So I decided to write up my own checklist for short hikes in a desert climate.

·         Water

I put this first because in the desert sun (especially during the summer) you can become dehydrated quickly. The body loses .5 gallons of water through normal respiration, perspiration, and urination during exercise. one website I saw online recommended about .5 liter per hour. Depending on the degree of difficulty on the trail and time of year you may need more or less.

·         Hiking boots, Moisture wicking socks (and maybe liners), Wide brimmed hat, Light colored, moisture wicking clothing

Proper clothing is just as important as water and sun protection, but it is kind of a given to me. You don’t walk onto a football field without a helmet and pads. You don’t walk out onto the baseball diamond without a hat and a glove or a bat. Some people nowadays will go on a hike in their tennis shoes, but I kind of worry about twisting my ankle So, I go with the boots that go above my ankles. I also like the sock liners that keep your feet dry, because your feet will get sweaty, even at the end of a 2 hour hike. The moisture wicking clothing is also more comfortable because it lets your sweat evaporate and keep you cool, which is what sweat is supposed to do. It also keeps you dry.

·         First-aid

Just in case. I like to have a pair of needle nose pliers to pull out cactus needles. It doesn’t happen often, but when it does, you will definitely be glad you had them.

·         Pocket knife

I honestly don’t know why you would need a pocket knife, but I am sure it would come in handy. Maybe you brought along an apple and needed to cut it? One site suggested taking a length of rope to hoist your pack over obstacles in which case it would come in handy to cut the rope

·         Sunglasses, Sunscreen, Lip balm

Sun protection is a must in the desert. In fact, I have heard that anywhere you go you should protect yourself from UV rays. You don’t just get skin cancer in the desert. The sun can also damage your eyes and lips and the lip balm helps keep your lips moist

·         Map

Well, you need to know where you are going, right? A compass and GPS device might be useful as well. My phone has a GPS app, but is only as reliable as the available signal.

·         Flashlight

If something does happen and you are out after the sun goes down, it might come in handy. Also, the reflective part might be able to signal passing planes or helicopters or others on the trail.

·         Extra food/water

Again, just in case you get lost, or trapped under a rock that has just fallen on you or some extreme scenario like that. A person can last for days, possibly weeks without food, but water is essential. Don’t be caught out in the desert without enough water. It can be deadly.

·         Insect repellent

Bugs can be annoying. I have got along without it on desert hikes but it is not a bad idea.

·         Camera

Good to have, so you can later post pictures on your blog.

·         Poncho

During the monsoon season, a storm can come without warning. The forecasts are somewhat reliable, but not an exact science.

·         Watch

Good for keeping track of time, signaling overhead aircraft in an emergency and you can sort of use it as a compass (I forgot how. Look it up, that is what google is for).

·         Emergency blanket

If you do get stuck after dark, the rural desert temperatures can get quite cold. It also can be used as an emergency shelter.

·         Bandana

Good to cover your neck from the sun and you can also soak it in water and put it on your head to cool you off. I have also heard of people putting a wet bandana over there mouth to reduce moisture loss.

If you look online there are more extensive lists, but I see them as lists for longer hikes and for cooler weather. Proper planning is the key.  It is always better to err on the side of caution as many things can go wrong out on the trail, but using common sense and experience, one can determine what is best for the type of trip they are planning.

McDowell Mountain Sonoran Preserve

View of Thompson Peak from the Bell Pass trail (or near it)

In preparation for the trip to Horton Springs (really just trying out my new hiking boots) I took a trip to the McDowell Mountain Sonoran Preserve, just (north) east of Scottsdale on Thompson Peak Boulevard.

At the trail head, I followed the Gateway Loop to the right. It connects with many other trails along the way and is a very easy hike (even by my present standards).

Tom's Thumb (in background, the rock formation on the mountain) from the gateway loop

I don't know if I succeeded, but I was aiming for the Bell Pass Trail. This trail takes you through a pass (DUH!) to fountain hills. Being an late morning hike in the Sonoran Desert (in the summer!), I didn't aim to hike that far. I hiked for a thirty minutes and back tracked toward the trail head.

By the time I got back, I was feeling the heat. Though I was born and grew up in the desert, I still feel the effects of the heat on my body. I had plenty of water, dehydration wasn't a problem. Hyperthermia could have been a problem had I stayed out any longer.

Horton Springs (Via the Highline Trail)

This summer, I decided to take a class called, "Outdoor Adventure Skills". I thought it was sort of a outdoor survival class, but it was more like a backpacking/camping class. In reading the course description and class times, I found out there would be a off campus trip, a camping trip. SWEET! I was really looking for a hiking class where I could go on a hike with a couple of people throughout the summer. It is probably too hot this time of year to go hiking in the valley so this class was the next best thing.

During the course of the semester we decided to go to Horton Creek, which flows from a spring that comes right out of the side of the Mogollon Rim. Lakes on top of the rim sort of seep under ground and the water comes out of the spring. There are a few of these creeks that are fed by springs; Tonto Creek, Christopher Creek and Dick Williams Creek to name a few. These creeks are all in the same area northeast of Payson, AZ, in the cool pines of the Tonto National Forest.

A view of the Mogollon Rim from the Fish Hatchery

While planning for the trip, I thought it would be best to go light. I am not in the best of shape and while I am not old, I am no spring chicken either. as I was packing and going over my checklist, I realized there was a lot of stuff going into this pack. I weighed myself while wearing the pack and subtracted my weight and found that I was going to be carrying 37 lbs of gear, and that was WITHOUT the water! I tried to cut out some things but when it came right down to it I kept on thinking, "what if". What if I leave out some food and I run out? What if I leave out some clothes and it gets cold? What if it rains and I don't have that poncho? Well, none of these things happened and I could have left out all of that stuff (and I probably should have). In the end, I was carrying a pack weighing 43 lbs(maybe more).

It was decided that morning that we would go to the Tonto Fish Hatchery before embarking on our adventure and take the Highline Trail to the campsite. The Highline Trail was made in the latter half of the 1800's to connect ranches along the base of the Mogollon Rim, one of which belonged to L.J. Horton. Horton moved to the area in 1881 and by 1888 was tending some 200 heads of cattle. Tragedy came to the Horton homestead however when he came back from a trip and found that his entire heard had been taken by cattle rustlers and he had to give up ranching (Warren 121).  From the highway to the springs is about 5 miles as apposed to our other option which was the Horton Creek Trail #285 that is about 4 miles. I thought that would be fine, what is one more mile? The length wasn't so much the problem, it was more difficult than it was long. It was a beautiful trail with great views of the rim and in some of the high places, great views of the Tonto Forest below the rim.

Starting out on the trail, we crossed over a creek (I think it may have been the Tonto, although it also could have been the Dick Williams) and headed out for a mile or so. We came to a spot where we took a slight detour to the Dick Williams Spring. It was a little off the beaten path although there was evidence of fellow travelers. We followed the creek up a ways and found a nice place to rest. We took off our packs and hiked up a ways more where the instructor gave a demonstration on his water purifier. He dropped one end of a hose in the creek and another in his water bottle and in the middle was a hand pump where the filter was. we all took turns and filled up our water bottles and hydration packs and continued up the creek. A little further up, we came across a bush with berries on it. They were wild raspberries and they were fully ripe and ready to eat. We were told that they were (relatively) safe for human consumption (there is always a risk there could be some kind of contamination) and we all picked the berries and ate them right off of the bush. They were wonderfully sweet and tart. A truly organic treat.

Picking Raspberries

After we got back to the Highline Trail, I knew I was in trouble. It went up and it kept going up. My shoulders started to hurt as did my calves. I was sucking wind like a woman in labor. I stopped to rest hear and there and took the opportunity to take some pictures. I thought I had turned off my phone, but apparently I didn't because it started to ring. It was a good thing though because it was someone who was going to meet us at the springs and they were wondering where we were. While trying to speak and catch my breath at the same time, I must have said something like, "Detour...Dick Williams Spring...Raspberries...Be there soon".

Dick Williams Creek

After I caught up with the group and told them about the phone call, we decided to take another detour (actually, I just went along with the group). once again, we abandoned our packs (THANK YOU GOD!) and hiked up this hill to what the instructor called the "vortex" where different energies converge upon this one spot. There were some power-lines on one side of this hill or butte and some said they could feel something, but all I could feel was my body, struggling to keep from falling apart. I could hear my body yelling, "Why?! Why are you doing this?!!" Aside from that, the view was spectacular! There was the rim on one side and the valley below. You could see the power-lines stretch out for miles below. The vistas from our vantage point were just beautiful.

The Mogollon Rim

Along the way, some of my classmates noticed I was struggling. some suggested carrying my pack higher and another offered to take some of my load. They were all very helpful and kind to do so. It wasn't long before we arrived at camp. I took off my pack and sat on a rock for a long while. Other people started setting up there tents and cooking there dinner and I just felt like dying! I had been eating dried fruit and nuts along the trail and sucking down water like no tomorrow and it all just came back up at one point. I took out my trowel that I brought with me and buried my vomit then tried to get moving. I set up camp and was feeling better before dark. We pumped more water out of the spring and had class around a campfire ring (no campfire though. No burn rule in effect). Another camper and I managed to tie our food up in a tree so it wouldn't attract bears and then we went to sleep.

Horton Springs

The Snozberries taste like Sozberries!

The next morning, most of the campers were gone. They got an early start and had other things to do. I explored the moss covered springs that flow from underneath a rock and into the creek bed, that eventually merges with the Tonto Creek that flows into the Verde River. I washed myself and brushed my teeth, packed up my gear and we headed out, minus the instructor (Dr. Brown took the Highline Trail back to get the van). The Horton Creek Trail #285 was like strolling through the mall with your grandmother compared to the Highline Trail. There were gorgeous waterfalls along the way and we stopped one more time to eat some more Raspberries.


All and all, this was an experience I will never forget. My only regret is that we had such a short time to explore and relax. If I ever get the chance, I will go back and take the time to enjoy it that much more.





Warren, Scott S. 100 Classic Hikes in Arizona. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers Books, 2007. Print.